Recommendations

Bolo de laranja with Krohn Porto Colheita 1982

On the platter is a square orange cake with the zest and juice of three oranges in the batter, light thanks to separately whisked egg white and dusted with icing sugar. Opposite it the port sets a colheita from 1982, which after more than forty years in cask brings dried fruit and spice.

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From the shelf

The bottle

Wiese en Krohn is a port house from 1865 that has exported its port to Scandinavia and Germany since the nineteenth century, and that is run by the third generation of the Falcao Carneiro family. This bottle is a colheita from the 1982 harvest: according to the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto a tawny from the grapes of a single year, which matures in cask for at least seven years and sees its colour and taste slowly shift there towards dried fruit, wood and spice. The bottle is at 20 percent alcohol and comes in 75 centilitres, and the house keeps to a serving temperature of 10 to 14 degrees.

Krohn Porto Colheita 1982

The combination

Why this works together

A bolo de laranja is a homely cake in Portugal, and it works with an old colheita precisely because it is not heavy. The cake takes its flavour from the zest and juice of three oranges: that is a lot of citrus, and so a lot of fruit acid. That acidity is the mechanism here. A forty-year-old colheita is very sweet and full; without acidity beside it, the combination becomes syrupy and lingers in the mouth. The orange cuts straight through that and cleans the mouth after every bite. There is also a link in aroma: the oil in the orange peel gives a bitter, almost spicy citrus note, and an aged colheita has a spice note of its own that suits it. And the separately whipped egg white makes the cake airy, so the plate does not compete with a glass that is already dense and silky.

At the table

The dish

  • For 4 people
  • Ready in 1 hour
  • Type dessert

What you need

  • 150 g soft butter
  • 300 g granulated sugar
  • 4 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
  • 3 large oranges, at room temperature
  • 250 g flour
  • 5 ml baking powder
  • icing sugar for dusting
  • a square baking tin of 20 by 20 cm

How to make it

  1. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Grease the baking tin or line it with baking paper.
  2. Beat the butter and the granulated sugar for about 2 minutes at medium speed until light and fluffy.
  3. Add the egg yolks one at a time and beat well after each yolk.
  4. At low speed add the zest and the juice of all three oranges. Then turn the speed to medium and beat until everything is incorporated; scrape down the bowl if needed.
  5. In another bowl, whisk the flour and baking powder together and beat this at low speed into the butter mixture until just incorporated.
  6. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. First fold a third of the egg white into the batter, then carefully fold in the rest.
  7. Pour the batter into the tin and bake the cake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top springs back under light pressure and a skewer comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs.
  8. Let the cake cool and dust it with icing sugar.

In the glass

Serving

Pour this colheita at 10 to 14 degrees. Use a generous glass: for very old port the institute recommends a large glass in which the aroma can develop. Do not fill it beyond a third and take small amounts. Decanting is not necessary, because a colheita is aged in cask and fined at bottling. According to the institute, an opened bottle of colheita stays good for one to four months; store it upright in a cool place.

Everything about Krohn Porto Colheita 1982Back to Recommendations from ’t Bockje

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