Recommendations

Oysters with Rutte Jonge Graanjenever

On the plate are twelve oysters on crushed ice, with a vinaigrette of shallot and red wine vinegar alongside. Opposite stands a young grain jenever from Dordrecht that picks up the salt and the iodine without setting anything sweet against it.

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From the shelf

The bottle

Rutte Jonge Graanjenever comes from Distilleerderij Rutte at Vriesestraat 130 in Dordrecht, which Simon Rutte set up there in 1872 behind his café. It is a young grain genever of 35% ABV in a 100 cl bottle. Rutte itself states that the malt wine share is 15%, the highest allowed within the young style. The flavouring consists of juniper, angelica, coriander and orris root. Legally, the designation young genever requires at least 35% ABV and at least 1.5% alcohol from malt wine.

Rutte Jonge Graanjenever

The combination

Why this works together

An oyster brings three things: sea salt, an iodine note and a creamy, almost sweet core. The salt calls for alcohol that takes it away, the iodine note for something resinous that can stand beside it, and the creamy core for as little weight as possible. Jonge jenever fits that exactly: it is largely neutral grain alcohol with juniper, and the 15% malt wine in Rutte provides just enough grain roundness not to leave the oyster bare. Put a korenwijn beside it and the malt wine completely drowns out the oyster; malt is heavier than shellfish. The shallot in the vinegar works as a bridge: the vinegar lifts the salt, the alcohol sweeps it away and the juniper is the last thing to linger.

At the table

The dish

  • For 4 people
  • Ready in 25 minutes
  • Type starter

What you need

  • 12 oysters
  • 1 shallot
  • 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 1 lemon
  • 1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 ice cubes
  • an oyster knife

How to make it

  1. Chop the shallot very finely and mix it in a small bowl with the red wine vinegar. Let this stand for 10 minutes.
  2. Grate the yellow zest of the lemon and squeeze out the fruit. In a second small bowl mix 1 tablespoon lemon zest, 3 tablespoons lemon juice, the finely chopped parsley and 2 tablespoons water. Season both dressings with black pepper.
  3. Wrap the ice cubes in a tea towel and crush them with the back of a pan. Spread the ice over a platter.
  4. Hold an oyster with the rounded side in the palm of your hand. Insert the oyster knife between the shell halves and carefully pry the top shell loose. Cut the meat free from the shell and place the oyster on the ice. Do this with all twelve oysters.
  5. Place the two dressings next to the dish and serve straight away, while the ice has not yet melted.

In the glass

Serving

Serve the Rutte Jonge Graanjenever chilled, from the freezer, in a tulip glass to the rim. A shot glass will also do, but the tulip glass holds the juniper better, and with oysters that is the aroma you are after. Leave the bottle in the cold between rounds; as soon as the jenever warms up the grain sweetness comes forward and you do not want that here.

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