Recommendations · Wine and food
White asparagus with Ellermann-Spiegel Grauburgunder Trocken
White asparagus with boiled egg, boiled ham, potatoes and melted butter. Grauburgunder is in Germany the usual companion of asparagus season.
From the shelf
The bottle
Ellermann-Spiegel Grauburgunder Trocken comes from Germany and is made from grauburgunder, the grape that is called pinot gris elsewhere. The wine is at 12.5 percent by volume and the bottle holds 75 centilitres. The aroma is fruity and spicy with ripe notes of tropical fruit: pineapple, pear, citrus and red gooseberry. The attack is fresh and fruity and lasts long, with lovely acidity.
The combination
Why this works together
Asparagus is a tricky product for wine. It has a slightly bitter, green tone that sharp acidity magnifies, and tannin makes that bitterness downright unpleasant. Grauburgunder has a somewhat fuller, rounder structure than most white wines and acidity that is there without stinging; as a result it sits alongside the asparagus instead of challenging it. The melted butter and the egg yolk bring fat, and that is precisely where this acidity has work to do. The light tropical fruit tone catches the sweet side of a fresh asparagus.
At the table
The dish
- Before 4 people
- Ready in 45 minutes
- Type main course
What you need
- 2 kilos white asparagus
- 1 kilo waxy potatoes
- 8 slices of cooked ham
- 4 eggs
- 200 grams of butter
- 1 lemon
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 20 grams chives
- 1 pinch of nutmeg
- salt and freshly ground white pepper
How to make it
- Peel the asparagus from just below the head downwards and cut a centimetre off the bottom. Keep the peelings aside.
- Boil the peels with the sugar and a teaspoon of salt in plenty of water for ten minutes. Strain this cooking liquid; it holds more asparagus flavour than clean water.
- Boil the potatoes until tender in twenty minutes.
- Lay the asparagus in the strained liquid, bring it almost to the boil and turn off the heat. Let it stand for fifteen minutes in the hot liquid; this keeps it firm instead of limp.
- Boil the eggs hard in nine minutes, rinse them under cold water and peel them. Mash them roughly with a fork.
- Slowly melt the butter in a saucepan without letting it brown and season it with a splash of lemon juice, salt, white pepper and nutmeg.
- Finely chop the chives and stir them into the egg.
- Lift the asparagus out of the liquid with a slotted spoon, let it drain briefly and divide it over four warm plates with the ham, the potatoes, the egg and the butter.
In the glass
Serving
Serve the wine at 10 to 12 degrees in a white wine glass with a slightly wider bowl. Too cold and the roundness this pairing needs disappears. Breathing is not necessary.
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