Carignan

Carignan is a black grape for red wine. The German variety register VIVC lists it under the main name Carignan Noir and records well over a hundred synonyms. According to that register, DNA markers have established that Castellana Blanca is one of the parents; the second parent is unknown.

The sources do not agree on its origin. VIVC names France as the country of origin. Jancis Robinson assumes a Spanish origin: the name refers to Cariñena in Aragón, where the grape has since largely been replaced by grenache. There is also a light variant, carignan blanc, in the Roussillon.

Yes, the grape has its own name in each country and region. Anyone who knows the names will recognise carignan even on a label where the word itself does not appear.

• Cariñena: the usual Spanish name, also in South America.
• Samsó: in Catalonia, including Priorat, Montsant, Penedès and Terra Alta.
• Mazuelo or mazuela: in the Rioja. VIVC gives Mazuela as the official name in Spain.
• Carignano: in Sardinia, known for the Carignano del Sulcis.
• Carignane: in the United States.

Outside Europe, the grape is found in California, Chile, Israel and North Africa, among other places.

Because for a long time it was the most planted grape in the country. According to Jancis Robinson, carignan remained so until merlot overtook it at the end of the twentieth century. After the harsh winters of 1956 and 1963, many vineyards in the Languedoc were replanted with carignan, so that by the mid-sixties the region consisted largely of carignan.

Then came the turnaround. In the nineties French plantings roughly halved, because winegrowers grubbed up vines with European subsidy. Decanter writes that a lot of old carignan made way for syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

In a warm climate. Carignan ripens late and therefore only succeeds where summers are long and hot. The grape is susceptible to powdery and downy mildew. According to Jancis Robinson, the stems are so tough that mechanical harvesting is difficult, and the vine can give very high yields, up to as much as 200 hectolitres per hectare.

With high yields, quality falls behind. Jancis Robinson names grapes from old vines, fully ripe on poor soil after a warm summer, as the basis of the best Carignan. On French labels this is often written as vieilles vignes. To make Carignan drinkable young, some producers use macération carbonique, fermentation of whole bunches.

In the Languedoc, Carignan is usually a blending partner, and the appellations set how much may go in. A few examples from the official specifications of the INAO:

• Saint-Chinian: Carignan is one of the main grapes, alongside Cinsault, Grenache, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Carignan and Cinsault together may not make up more than 50 percent of the plantings.
• Saint-Chinian Berlou: here, by contrast, a minimum of 30 percent carignan applies.
• Corbières: the wines come from at least two grapes, with the INAO naming carignan as the grape that gives the red wine its structure.

Jancis Robinson also names Minervois, Faugères, Fitou and the Languedoc appellation as areas where carignan is part of the blend.

At ’t Bockje there are wines from the Languedoc and the Rhône with carignan in the blend, and a wine that carries the grape on the label. All from France.

• By name of the grape: Xavier Roger Carignan vieilles vignes.
• Saint-Chinian and Minervois: Maison Lorgeril Château de Ciffre Saint Chinian and Domaine La Borie Blanche Minervois.
• Languedoc and Pays d’Oc: Laurent Miquel Les Auzines Languedoc Rouge and Aussières rouge Pays d’Oc by Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite).
• Rhône: La Vieille Ferme Rouge and Domaine Brunely's Côtes du Rhône Rouge, Vacqueyras Rouge and Ventoux.
• Also: Laurent Miquel Vendanges Nocturnes Classic Rouge, Nizas Le Clos Rouge and Dune Gris de Gris.

If you would like to know how much carignan is in a particular bottle, drop by at Brink 2 in Bathmen or call 0570 541 278.

The shop is at Brink 2 in Bathmen. Open Tuesday to Friday from 09.00 to 18.00 and Saturday from 09.00 to 17.00. For advice, call 0570 541 278 or email info@bockje.nl.